In the early hours of Friday, 23rd June, a group of intrepid explorers (8 students and 2 staff members) set off from the Queen’s campus in Birmingham to visit our friends and colleagues from the Free Methodist Church and Kibogora Polytechnic University in Rwanda, as part of the Queen’s MEET programme (Mutual Exchange & Encounter for Transformation). And what an adventure it was … we will be processing all the things we saw, heard and experienced for a long time, but here are a few of the highlights:
- Kibogora Sunset Rendezvous: Mwadzi Magaisa
- Visits to Genocide Memorials: Mel Beaven
- Visit to new building under construction at Kibogora Polytechnic: Eric Bediako
- Eating our way around Rwanda: Stephen Lau
- Reconciliation Work – Cows and Pineapples: Sue Ann Mak
- Church visits: Louisa Taylor
- An invitation to be present: Anna Bland
- Worship at Bitare: Vivian Chikaviro
- Getting moving: Bill Topping
- Educational partnership – learning what it really means: Jen Smith
Kibogora Sunset Rendezvous: Mwadzi Magaisa
On our first day in Kigali (Rwanda’s capital) we visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial site, dedicated to the memory of those who died during Rwanda’s genocide during the early 1990’s. It was an emotionally, spiritually, physically and psychologically difficult experience that tested all my normal skills and mechanisms to mentally cope with trauma and challenge. By the end of the day, I became aware that the entire visit would be an emotional rollercoaster centred on this experience. But, the Holy Spirit had other plans, not just to comfort me, but also to change the whole narrative of my visit.
Several days later, after we had travelled to the other side of the country, I had an experience that allowed me to reset and re-energise. As I set watching the Kibogora sunset with the rest of the group and our hosts, all my anxieties and fears just melted away. I have watched many sunsets in my life, but sitting with others waiting to witness the majestic Rwandan sunset became a form of worshipping God. We would sit sharing our experiences, some of us would find a spot to sit or stand or take a walk, and then, as if in sync, turn attention to the lake across and focus on the horizon, watching the sun say goodbye to daylight. In the background, the birds sang their last song, and on most days, even the church choirs would seem to take a break at that time. I was always reminded of my mother, who used to tell me to be silent when watching sunsets, and she would say that if I were quiet and silent enough, I might hear the sun setting. Silence seemed to come naturally, and I almost always watched the sunset in silence. In community, we would absorb this gift from God and appreciate Rwanda’s generous and humble people. I also found myself saying silent prayers, thanking God for the day, for Rwandans, our hosts, my brothers and sisters who were with me, our leaders, our families and for nature and for those whose lives were cut short in the Genocide. The Rwandan sunsets over lake Kivu, abuzz with boats and fish farm, helped my spirit connect with a thriving people filled with love and hope in God, despite what they had gone through. The M.E.E.T trip to Rwanda is an experience that will stay with me for the rest of my life.
Visits to Genocide Memorials: Mel Beaven
During our time in Rwanda, we encountered several genocide memorials. It is difficult to ignore them as there are so many: the biggest is the Kigali Genocide Memorial, which is the final resting place for 250,000 victims of the genocide as well as a place of education. The haunting exhibition features a timeline and various items, including weapons, but the most unsettling room is the Children’s Room. Personal stories of murdered children are told, and the cause of death is noted in its shocking brutality. Some of those young lives were cut so short that the family could only note that the baby was restless or liked milk. School classes also visit the memorial as part of the national curriculum. As we visited during the period of national remembrance, we saw a class celebrating a ritual of unity and remembrance, which was beautiful to witness.
We also attended a remembrance service at a school in Butembo, Nyamasheke (a district in the Western Province of Rwanda) where our host, Methodist Bishop Samuel Kayinamura was headteacher when the genocide happened. Personal testimonies were given, and we were invited to lay a flower arrangement at the memorial just outside the school. Over 2,000 children and adults were killed just from that school and the surrounding houses, many following a deadly invitation by the killers to leave their houses to attend a reconciliation conversation. Personal stories told by survivors, including Bishop Samuel, were haunting but also full of hope: hope in humanity in the most horrific circumstances and hope in the courage shown by everyday neighbours.
In Kigali, we stayed at the wonderful Good News Guest House adjacent to the Methodist Church. We all visited the church, and some of us preached there our first Sunday. Church and guest house are surrounded by beautiful, serene gardens, and build an oasis in the hustle and bustle of the city. But even this beauty spot was a genocide location, and there is a memorial in the garden: people were killed whilst looking for shelter in churches, and the Methodist Church was no exception. Bullet holes in the roof still bear witness to the event in which families and small children were butchered.
I was impressed by the remembrance culture of Rwanda. Some say the genocide is seen through one particular lens; we will have heard one side and not the other. And some authors question whether the events of 1994 constitute genocide or something else entirely. All this reminds me of the Holocaust. Germany is still working on its “Vergangenheitsbewältigung” (overcoming the past); it takes time, and the generational trauma sits deep. Rwanda’s leadership has decided the only way forward is to criminalise “genocide ideology” and promote unity. So far, with visible success. It remains to be seen how the country develops once President Kagame is no longer in office. My prayers are for continued unity, peace, and reconciliation in this beautiful country, among its wonderful people, and its rich culture.
Visit to new building under construction at Kibogora Polytechnic: Erik Bediako
The visit to the construction site brought back memories—of being onsite as a working labourer and later working as an engineer. Although my past training, knowledge, and familiarity with a building site came flooding back, this time I was not there to inspect the work as a visiting engineer but to learn about the University’s plans and what it meant for them to build a new campus.
We learned that education forms a key part of the community in Kibogora, not just for the students. They see education as integral to what makes Rwanda a unique country—recognizing that the challenges of the present and future can only be addressed by its educational institutions and the students they educate.
A building as a place of learning, growth, and development is part of that vision. Buildings are constructed for all sorts of different purposes. The Bible has stunning descriptions of ancient buildings—places of worship where sacrifices were offered to God at their altars. It also speaks of a building turned into a marketplace, where Jesus entered and overturned the moneychangers’ tables so that the building would be known for what it was meant to be, calling out those who had repurposed it for something else. That, of course, is not what the building we visited will be used for – it will be a place where faith, education, expression, and freedom to learn and grow will flourish.
For me, one of the most impressive things I will take away from our visit to the construction site is the dedication of the workers and engineers who see this vision as part of their vocational calling and (in some ways) national identity —building something that is part of Rwanda’s future. For this reason, I celebrate the work being carried out and the men and women who are bringing it to life
Eating our way around Rwanda: Stephen Lau
I had a great time in Rwanda, and the food was one of the best parts. Every meal was special, with fresh and tasty food.
I really enjoyed Sambaza, small fish from Lake Kivu. I ate them grilled and deep-fried. The grilled fish tasted smoky, and the fried fish was crispy. Both were very delicious. They were served with cassava paste and rice, making the meal even better. Another dish I enjoyed was ugali, a thick maize porridge. Ugali is simple but filling, and it goes well with many meals. It had a soft texture and was perfect for soaking up the flavours of different dishes. One night, we had grilled goat meat, and it was amazing! It was full of spices, very juicy, and had a great smoky taste from the grill. It was simple but very delicious. We also ate cassava-based dishes. I tried Isombe, which is made from cassava leaves cooked with peanut butter and spices. It was soft, creamy, and full of flavour.
Some restaurants had international food, but they also had local dishes. I really enjoyed Igisafuria stew with tilapia, a hearty hot bowl filled with vegetables, chicken, and fish, all cooked together in one pot. The tilapia added a delicious seafood flavour, while the vegetables made it rich and filling. This meal was warm and comforting, perfect after a long day.
I ate plantain, which was cooked until soft. They had a slightly sweet taste and were very filling.
Rwanda has much fresh fruit. I enjoyed papayas, pineapples, passion fruits, and tomatillos. Papayas were soft and sweet, making them a refreshing treat. Tomatillos had a little sour taste, which made them special.
The best part of my food journey was the people. Everyone was kind and friendly. Eating food in Rwanda was more than just meals—it helped me learn about the country and its culture. The food, the people, and the experience made my trip truly unforgettable.
Reconciliation Work – Cows and Pineapples: Sue-Ann Mak
To attend one of the Genocide Memorial Services, our minibus took us through some of the steepest hills of Nyamasheke District to Butembo village, the home of Bishop Samuel. At the memorial service, Bishop Samuel spoke about his personal experiences during the 1994 genocide, including how local villagers had helped him flee on a boat to Congo to save his life.
After the memorial service, we had the honour of meeting with the members of the Reconciliation Group in the Gitsimbwe school hall—both survivors and rescuers. Stories were shared about how courageous neighbours had risked their own lives to protect the survivors in 1994; they were certain that would not be alive today if not for their selfless friends. When the man representing the “protectors” stood up to speak, I was fighting tears. He spoke about how they would work through the night when perpetrators were not out hunting and killing. I watched this small, elderly man in awe—he was living testimony of the best of humanity. Despite his small stature, his courage and sacrificial actions were larger than life. “No one has greater love than this, to lay down one’s life for one’s friends” (John 15:13). Amidst the ongoing chaos and conflict in our world, his life is evidence that there is still goodness and hope in our land.
As part of facilitating the reconciliation work in Butembo, the church and its partners have helped to purchase cows for the survivors to offer as gifts of gratitude to their rescuers, with the arrangement of a breeding scheme. The first-born calf would then be given back to the survivor rescued by the villagers, which forms a bond of lasting friendship between the two people. The cow as gift and its calf as a return of gift would be a very visible sign of reconciliation and ongoing relationship.
Another initiative of the Reconciliation Group is the planting of pineapples. The Inshutiyanashuti (translated from Kinyarwanda as Friendship Group) Pineapple Project is situated on a very steep piece of land on the hillside, which is ideal for growing for pineapple (see photo). Every Friday, members of the group—survivors and rescuers—meet to tend to their pineapple crops, which further solidifies their bond of friendship. The produce from the crop can also be used for the benefit of their community.
Rwanda as a nation will soon encounter another challenging milestone—at the end of 2025, perpetrators of the genocide will be released from prison after a 30-year sentence. All communities, including churches have begun preparation works for the release and reintegration of the instigators and perpetrators back into society.
On both Sundays during our trip, we split into smaller groups to visit a range of local church congregations in worship and fellowship. When we all came back together later in the day, we were filled with the joy of the worship we had participated in at different churches in and around Kigali and Kibogora.
Each team discovered vibrant and extravagantly welcoming communities of faith. Stephen, Vivian and I worshipped at Kicukiro on the first Sunday and Bitare on the second. In some ways, the two experiences were very different. Kicukiro Methodist Church is at the heart of a residential area in Kigali, and its urban setting is reflected in the technology used in worship: the words of songs and Bible readings are projected onto big screens, and the second service of the day is always livestreamed. Bitare, as you can read in Vivian’s account, is a rural community. The singing and dancing were of a more “traditional” style, and there were no screens or hymn books in sight—although I still found myself singing along, despite not knowing any Kinyarwanda (Most Rwandans’ first language). The joy was infectious, but more than that, in both churches there was a clear sense of us joining in with the Spirit moving in the congregation, which went beyond linguistic or cultural differences. We felt that when singing the Apostles’ Creed, which is common to all the churches; raising our hands together in singing “I believe” was a powerful experience.
Underlying the various experiences of local churches, we discovered common threads when our different “teams” shared stories afterwards. The churches in Rwanda (of all denominations) are facing challenges: to ensure that places of worship are safe and that their leaders are well trained, the Rwandan government has closed thousands of local churches across the country until they can meet health and safety regulations. The effect of this on churches is huge. 
Some people walk for miles to reach their nearest Methodist church on a Sunday, and the worshipping communities are several times the size of what they would normally be. The churches that remain open have adapted by offering several services throughout the day (three or even four) and shortening service times – some services only last for two and a quarter hours, instead of the usual three and a half! I was struck and moved by the dedication and adaptability of congregants and pastors, who have worked hard to ensure that worship continues to be accessible to as many people as possible.
Despite these difficulties, each of us was overwhelmed by the hospitality of the churches, who took time to welcome visitors by name during the service and served us delicious home-cooked meals afterwards. We all bring back memories of the dancing, singing and food – but most of all, the warmth of so many people who welcomed us with open arms. 
An invitation to be present: Anna Bland
The journey between Kigali and Kibogora Polytechnic is about 200km, or 260km if you go via the Nyungwe Rainforest as we did on our return journey to Kigali. Although sitting in a bus for the best part of a day is not always the most fun (and we are in awe of our Rwandan colleagues who make this journey regularly) it was an opportunity to take in the best of Rwanda’s green, hilly vistas and spot some wildlife. Rwanda’s main industry is agriculture, and you can’t go far without being surrounded by rice fields, avocado, mango, guava or banana trees, casava, tea fields and much more. One particularly unforgettable view was coming around a bend in the road to catch our first glimpse of Lake Kivu nested in the middle of a valley near Gitese. This lake was to be the setting for the many sunsets we enjoyed in Kibogora. On our way back to Kigali, through the rainforest, we were able to spot monkeys and baboons sitting on the side of the road. 
In between travelling and pauses in our itinerary, we got to enjoy the plant and animal life that surrounded us. The cicadas and grasshoppers very quickly made themselves known, and a few of us even shared living quarters with geckos. Rwanda, like most of Africa, is incredibly rich with natural resource (and of course, also like the rest of the world, climate change is affecting this resource). Some of us were very enthusiastic about bird watching. There were so many amazing birds, some with very unique calls, and with the help of technology we were able to identify most: the Hadada Ibis, Tropical Boubou, Cinnamon-breasted Bee eater, Black Kite, Sunbird and Speckled Mousebird to name a few. It was a blessing to be surrounded by this wealth of natural beauty and to have time to appreciate it.
Of course, you don’t have to leave the UK for decent bird watching. In fact, I left wanting to pay more attention to the wildlife that surrounds me at home. But I found the unusual bird calls and unfamiliar species reawakened by attention to the natural world. I might even call them disruptive in a Holy Spirit kind of way (especially the noisiest birds early in the morning!) Bird songs have no use to humans other than to bring enjoyment. It isn’t a resource to be used up, but a way for the natural world to announce its presence with us and invite us to pay attention.
Worship at Bitare: Vivian Chikaviro
Arriving at Bitare church, hearing the children and young people singing, laughing and dancing brought vivid memories of my childhood in Zimbabwe. However, despite this joy and buzz, the heartbreaking news was to hear that, due to limited space, not all people could gather for worship. Hence, the children and young people were in a separate room next to the main church building. This church accommodated 400 people, and was completely full, such that some people were outside looking through the windows – another 400 people would arrive for the afternoon service. Reflecting on my faith journey, I never dreamt that one day I would preach and share with such a huge congregation. In John 13:34-35, Jesus teaches that Christian love rises above human differences. It was a privilege and honour to share that love with a nation that is already living out this commandment despite the challenges it has faced.
Each year, Rwandans celebrate Umuganura or the “First Harvest Day”. On this day, individuals bring their harvest as their thanksgiving to God. We worshipped with the community as they celebrated this Umuganura harvest. The procession was led by five women holding lit candles as a symbol of being light to the world (Matthew 5:14-16). 
Witnessing people coming with their offering of money and crops with such generosity and willingness was so moving. As part of the celebration, there was a moment of singing songs of praise and dancing too. After the church service, the food is distributed in the community supporting the poor, orphans, widows, elderly and sick. They also sell some of the produce, and the money is used to support the church’s ministry. This whole act of worship reminded me of Romans 12:1-2, a call to dedicate our entire lives to God, not just in a spiritual sense but also in our actions and conduct.
We were also moved at how this nation is looking after the planet, for example, Rwanda has a complete ban on non-biodegradable plastic bags. I was struck at how offering ourselves to serve, using our gifts, and talents includes being good stewards of planet Earth. This is a lesson we could certainly learn from the people of Rwanda.
Our time in Rwanda was threaded through with dance. Wonderfully, it was worship that got it going. During our time in Kigali and then Kibogora, the group had two opportunities to experience a morning service. These acts of worship, far longer than most of us are used to in the UK, progressed in an unhurried frolic that served as both a way to express being filled with the love of God, and join together the wider community of worshippers.
The physicality of worshipping in this way, led by a constant stream of live music, left me both bodily and spiritually exercised. Choir after choir (likely more than usual due to recent church closures drawing multiple congregations together) sang and swayed, delighted and danced. My Britishness inhibited my participation in this dancing liturgy to begin with. I am grateful though that I was eventually left with no choice and literally dragged into the melting pot. Worshippers would gather in groups in the middle of church to jump and skip, sway and bob. I stuck out, but was welcomed in.
The dynamism of worship in this way makes it impossible not to feel the Spirit move. One could not help but be struck by the joy and faithfulness of these worshipers. Our inclusion helped make the point that God’s community is rich and diverse – vibrant and active.
There are of course questions. What room is made for lament with worship like this? How are the less physically able meant to participate? Perhaps I’m unfit but does it really need to be quite so long? These are legitimate questions, but what they must not do is take away from the truth and joy that is the worship of God through dance. I’ve been worshipping God by dancing since I got back – my link church congregation seemed bemused. Perhaps a little more movement might help us understand the dance that comes with being in relationship with God and living for God’s loving purposes.
Educational partnership: learning what it really means: Jen Smith
I count myself as a reasonably well travelled student and educator: I completed my compulsory schooling and Undergraduate degree in the USA and then my PhD in The Netherlands. But nothing prepared me for learning Rwanda-style.
The Queen’s Foundation has partnered with Kibogora Polytechnic University now, almost since it began in 2012. Our aim is to support one another in equipping theology students, who will then equip the Church. Having worked closely with the Rwandan students who have spent time with us in Birmingham, I was keen to see their home setting. We were blown away by the scale of the teaching and learning that happens: sometimes 300+ students in a classroom, thousands of students on multiple campuses learning almost everything from dentistry and midwifery to accounting and business, education and aquaculture! We watched students practising anaesthesia techniques on apples and heard about their plans for expansion. It was impossible not to be impressed by their skill, diligence and commitment as we toured the teaching hospital, training the next generation of nurses, surgeons and carers for both physical and mental health.
But the biggest thing I am bringing away from my time with our student and staff colleagues at Kibogora is the commitment (and sacrifice) of so many individuals to their educational goals. To lead the University, the Vice Chancellor (pictured in orange and yellow in the centre of our group photo) lives on the other side of the country to her husband. Similarly, many of the students travel great distances, leaving their families and communities, to pursue their studies. Many of them face levels of adversity that most British students would baulk at, and they do it with little fuss, in fact, they follow their goals with great persistence and lots of joy! The next time I get frustrated that someone has checked out a book from the library that I need or that Moodle doesn’t display as well as I would like it to on my phone, or there is traffic on the A38, I will be reminded of my Rwandan colleagues pressing on to honour God in their teaching and studying (often in their 3rd language!).
If you are interested in studying theology in a diverse and ecumenical community, let’s find your pathway!
